Croatia is poised to become one of the hottest short-haul destinations of the year. Lonely Planet tagged its coast region of Istria as one of its top visits for 2011, and that’s just one of many stops in this cheap, outside-the-eurozone country.
Here’s our list to do and see, including standard toy-making, a sea and sun-powered music and light show, traditional Greek fields, Roman marvels and lighthouse stays on remote islands. Not to mention one thousand miles of rocky coves and pine-fringed beaches.
1. Inside these walls
One US internet site recently named the third most romantic place in the world, after Buenos Aires and Bora Bora, but ahead of Paris and Venice. This beautiful ‘city of stone and light ‘, between the Adriatic and the Dinaric Alps, was battered during the Balkan war of the Nineties.
Restorers pieced it together virtually to the state of its glory days : the newer orange terracotta tiles are the only actual clue as to where the bombs slid. The well preserved, mile-long 14th Century ramparts are among the best in Europe. The pedestrian-only old city within is brim-full of medieval, renaissance and baroque treasures, as well as designer shops, trattorias and galleries.
2. Truffles and bikes
Istria stands apart at the top of Croatia, close to Trieste and Venice. Forsaken Planet describes it as ‘toned down Tuscany’. There are lots of easy beach-holiday options on Istria’s shore ( it’s the same all down Croatia’s long, crinkly coast, and more than 1,000 islands ).
Or you could escape to the region’s green interior, where narrow roads spiral up to remote medieval hill cities and hamlets. Stay in a BB and eat in restaurants under chestnut trees. Cycling vacation firms offer routes over well-signed paths, while they whisk baggage to the following stop. This is prime truffle country : try them in omelettes or stirred into wild boar croquettes.
3. Light symphony
Sea and the sun combine to give an expert music and light performance on the promenade in Zadar, the pretty and important city now served by budget flights. The Sea Organ is 35 pipes of different lengths, diameters and angles built into the steps over that the Adriatic washes. The tide pushes air down the tubes to supply a haunting and unpredictable symphony.
Architect Nikola Basic has added Greeting To The Sun, a glass circle set on the quay at the exact point on the waterfront from where you see what is alleged to be the planet’s most wonderful sunset. Photovoltaic plates (a sort of solar energy panel) absorb energy by day and produce a show of dancing lights by night, and enough power to light the whole quay.
4. Hand-carved heritage
There’s a heart-warming alternative choice to heavily produced, and you’ll be able to find it in the area of Hrvatsko Zagorje, north of Zagreb. They have been making toys by hand here for ages, applying simple talents that never died out. The men carve 50 kinds of toys from locally produced willow, lime, beech and maple, and the ladies decorate them in ecologically friendly red, yellow and blue paint.
Unesco has put this admirable calling on its World Intangible Cultural Heritage List. Best spots to see toymakers in action are Marija Bistrica and surrounding hamlets. Other Croatian cultural customs are two-part folks singing in the coastal regions, and lacemaking in Pag, Lepoglava and Hvar.
5. Fields of dreams
There’s a new, and extraordinarily old, reason to take the short ferry trip from Split to wondrous Hvar, the longest of the 1,000 Croatian islands. Unesco has just made the island’s Stari Grad Plain an international heritage site, recognising it as the best saved ancient Greek landscape in the Mediterranean. Greek settlers started farming here 2,400 years ago, and nothing has really changed in the quiet routine of cultivating grapes and olives on the same parcels of land marked out by the original Greek surveyors.
You can walk or cycle thru this eternal horticultural grid, divided by traditional walls, dotted with beehive-shaped stone shelters. One other thing to do on Croatia’s islands is hire a lighthouse residence (www.lighthouses-croatia.com).
6. Split – the difference
Croatia’s prodigious Roman remains are one of its many attractions. Split, with budget flights from the United Kingdom, is a good short-break location at any point of year. There’s the rare thrill of staying in a boutique hotel or house within the 1,700-year-old walls of Roman Emperor Diocletian’s massive palace.
Dress your best and take a turn on the Riva, the promenade along the Adriatic to the pine-forested spur park. Just 20 miles away is another marvel, the well-preserved city of Trogir, with lovely Venetian buildings on a pre-Roman street plan as reported .